Heading into Western Anatolia
After Uludağ, I headed west towards Bandermir and the coast
of the Marmara Sea. I was using Green and Moorhouse’s book, ‘A Birdwatchers’
Guide to Turkey’ to decide on the best sites to visit across the enormous
expanse of this country. Based on the site description for the next birding
location on my agenda, Kocaçay Delta, I was not expecting to find much other
than low scrubland. However, what was described as coastal scrub in the book
turned out to be magnificent coastal woodland, being so dense in places that it
could also be referred to as forest. I had barely begun to digest the potential
of the birdlife there, when a local pulled up beside me in a 4x4 vehicle. I
soon guessed he must be a photographer, judging by the stickers on the door.
Alper had summed me up too, so was keen to meet up with me later to chat about
birds and photography. I was in luck, what could be better than hanging out
with a local who has the same interests and knows the area?
Woodland close to the beach at the Kocaçay Delta.
Denser woodland at the Kocaçay Delta
It was late afternoon already and Alper has some chores to
attend to, but returned later that evening to my camp site as promised, with
juice and a watermelon. I was experiencing real Turkish hospitality, something
that the Turks are well known for. Later that night, the call of a Tawny Owl
echoed through the woodland not far from my camp. Next morning I went for a
cycle along some of the tracks through the woodland towards the delta’s lake.
Though the woodland birds were more quite now than in spring, the birding was
still very good. Middle Spotted, Lesser Spotted and Green Woodpeckers were
often seen pecking their way along the branches of taller trees, while Eurasian
Golden Orioles called from dense canopies. Red-backed and Masked Shrikes were
also common, the latter being a highlight as I had only seen it once before in
Greece. Cirl Buntings were seen in the more open scrub towards the beach, where
I also found a Sardinian Warbler, much to my surprise.
A poor photo of a striking bird, the Masked Shrike
Though the lake looked fairly quite at first glance,
patience revealed flocks of Glossy Ibis and Great Cormorant flying by and
Little and Great Crested Grebes on the open waters. The muddy shoreline was
patrolled by Common Greenshank, Wood and Green Sandpiper. This is where I also
found my first Water Rail; I recognised the call and waited while peering across
a small patch of mudflat between the reeds. The bird came into view, saw me,
and ducked back out of sight, giving me just enough time to get a reasonable
view. Back in the woodland, I found
another first which had eluded me for long – Common Kingfisher. What makes the
woodland even more special is that much of it is also flooded, providing
lily-covered ponds for a myriad of water-loving birds. I soon learnt that the
kingfishers were common here, and had numerous sightings over the couple days
that I spent there. Pygmy Cormorant made full use of the ponds, as there were
always a few birds present at each, perched on dead branches over the water.
A lily-covered pool, one of many tucked away within the woodland.
Water lily.
After work, Alper came round to pick me up for a late
afternoon session of bird photography. We headed for the river mouth where I
was hoping to find another bird on my hit list. As Alper had promised, a Ruddy
Shelduck was at the mouth, standing on a sand spit. It was not long before a
flock of shelduck flew in to join the bird. Another memorable sighting, and in
the company of a new friend. We savoured the scene before us as more species
revealed themselves, such as Whiskered and Sandwich Tern, Black-headed Gull and
a few Common Redshank.
Bird life near the mouth of the delta. Photo taken by Alper
A Little Egret and Ruddy Shelduck at the mouth of the Kocaçay Delta
A Ruddy Shelduck coming in to land. Photo taken by Alper.
With Alper after the amazing Ruddy Shelduck sighting. Photo taken by
Alper
That evening Alper returned again to my camp site, and
brought along more Turkish treats. I was really being spoilt! Joined by one of
his friends, we took to the tracks through the woodland for a night drive in
search of Wild Boar, which seemed to be one of Alpers favourite activities.
Numerous Black-crowned Night-herons were seen hunting by the ponds, while a
European Nightjar perched on a wire beside the road was a pleasant surprised.
My first Wild Boar sighting was that of a sow with three piglets crossing an
open area, what a moment it was; a mammal lifer! This sighting was soon followed
by three young boars, which also caused quite a stir in the vehicle. Alper
clearly never tires of seeing these animals and took every opportunity to get a
photograph. On our return to my camp we had two hedgehog sightings, just to
round off the evening I suppose! It was a long but exhilarating night, and one
that will be remembered. I am grateful to Alper for hosting me with such much
enthusiasm and energy; it was a real privilege to get to know him.
With Alper after an amazing night looking for Wild Boars. Photo
taken by Alper
The next morning it was time to move on, but not after an
extended session of birding in the woodland. Some interesting species included
Hawfinch, Eurasian Hoopoe, Long-tailed Tit and a possible female Semi-collared
Flycatcher. I had agreed to meet Alper at his work place in nearby Karacabey
for a final goodbye, so popped by his office for a visit. Seeing Alper in a
smart shirt was quite different from the Alper I had got to know over the past
two days – I knew where he got his kicks from! After saying farewell, I took
the opportunity to meet up with another Alper, a part-time bee-keeper, in Karacabey.
I had actually met Alper the bee-keeper before I met Alper the phoptograher,
and after exchanging numbers, agreed to meet up with him again. Alper kindly
took me out for lunch, gave me a jar of his finest honey and pollen (a
completely new eating sensation for me), and even arranged a place for me to
spend the night, where I again experienced amazing Turkish hospitality
